I spend two weeks in the white mountains of New Hampshire. In
those two weeks I went to four climbing areas that were all about 45 minutes
away from the White Mountain School Campus. We went to Rumney, Cathedral, Mt
Oscar, and Eco Crag. My favorite place to go climb was Rumney because it had a
huge amount of sport climbs that you could do. Rumney was the place I preferred
to go because I like sport climbing and I really wanted to work to get better
at it. The climbing at Rumney was really technical which was really nice and
some climbs had a mix of small power moves. The first few times we went to
Rumney I was able to go to Waimea. Waimea has a really high consistency of hard
routes. The easiest route there was a 5.10a. The routes I worked on while I was
there was Restless Native and Technosurfing; both of which are 5.12. I worked
on Restless Native the first two days. Restless Native is a 5.12b/c and I was
able to get up through the first crux. I made it through the crux in two moves
and I worked up a few moves past it then I got super pumped. I came down and
took a break for a little bit and then gave it another go. I made it to the
same spot and got the same pump. I then decided I should try it another day. I
tried Technosurfing. I wasn’t able to get the starting moves. The starting
moves are lean backs and it a little awkward because you need to bring your
hips in really tight with the wall. It put a lot of pressure towards my lower
back so I decided I should try it another day. The next day it rained so we
weren’t able to climb because all the climbs were wet. We went back the next
day and we head straight to Waimea and we didn’t need a warm up because the
hike up to Waimea was a little hard. I jumped right on to Restless Native and
gave it a good go and made it through the crux moves and up further than I did
the last time I tried it. I was super excited because I knew it was going to be
a good day of climbing for me. We were able to get on Technosurfing. I was a
little nervous about getting on it because the start is really hard. I gave it
a go and walked right the starting moves and through the next 6 draws. I fell
at the end of the first crux. I was really excited because I knew I was going
to be able to get further than where I got. I tried the crux and few more times
and finally broke through and made it to the 7th draw and got really
pumped. I decided to come down and work on other routes. The next day was our
off day and Sunday we went to Mt Oscar. I decided I wanted to work on other
routes in new areas. I went to Main Cliff Left for three days of the next five
days of climbing. I flashed Scene of the Crime as a sport climb. It was a lot
of and really technical, you had to be precise with your feet. Gabe set up
Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication. I onsighted this route top rope and
gave it a go lead. I was unable to do it
lead. I just let my nerves get to me when I need them not to the most. We came
back the next day and I sent the route lead. I was really excited because I had
walked right through the entire route. The next day we went to the 5.8 Crag.
There I flashed “Romancing the Stone: which is a 5.10c. This climb is a little
weird because you want to have a lay back but the type of moves just don’t allow
you to do so. The finish on this route is about 7 feet of straight jugs. I was
happy with how I was climbing because I was getting tired. My body was not
really al the excited with pushing more and more each day. The last day of
climbing I went to Main Cliff Right. I got on a 5.8, a 5.7 and a 5.5 all sport.
When we were all done climbing each day we would put our gear in our dorms and
head up to the game room and do fosse ball tournament. We would have dinner and
then have an activity for the night before Evening Meeting. There we would talk
about what we did for the day, what we liked or didn’t like and what our plan
for the next day was. We would go back to our dorms for the night and we had
till 10 to do whatever we needed to do. I brought the GoPro along with me and
it took more than 500 photos and 10 videos. I kept track of all the routes I
was able to complete weather it was an onsight or a flash. I got home August 3, 2013 and took a few days
off but I will soon be getting ready for the upcoming ABS Season. All of the
pictures and videos that were taken at camp are loaded to my Facebook, YouTube
and Flickr Accounts. Check them out, there are a ton of really cool photos for
the surroundings.
Sunday, August 11, 2013
Monday, July 15, 2013
2013 SCS Nationals and Training Camp
We left Sunday the 30th and stopped in Nashville to take a few rest days and get one last climbing day in before nationals. We stopped at The Crag at Cool Springs. This gym was more of a bouldering gym which was fine because I needed to work on power endurance. They had a few sections for lead climbing and top rope climbing. Many of the routes were bouldering and really hard. A 5.9 would be more like an 5.10 to a 5.10+.The harder the route grade of the route the more the route was stretched out. So we climbed for a while and did sets so it would help a little with endurance. After words we took a break before we started bouldering. The bouldering was good. They were graded by which category they would be put in for a competition. So it was Rec, Intermediate, Advanced, and Open. I did one or two on a Intermediate problem then tried some Advanced and Open problems. Some of the Open problems I would get further on than an Advanced problem. We bouldered for few hours before we got tired and headed back to the hotel. The next morning we got up and left Nashville and headed for Atlanta. The drive wasn't to long just really boring. We got here in Atlanta and did nothing for about 5 hours because we were tired from the drive. We went to dinner and then went back to the hotel and watched a movie that was on FX. The 3rd we checked in got my number and MY T-SHIRT. The morning of the 4th I got up and about ten minutes later I was like "I'm ready! Lets Go!" We checked in to the gym and wondered around for a while. Found the route that I would be climbing and looked it over for a while. After I was done looking it over, I wondered around again and looked at the other routes that were up. They called for all Bunnies to be at their assigned route for the fore run. I headed back over to where my route was and sat down. After watching the forerunner. They made it appear much harder that everyone had read the route originally. I was one of the last people to go out, so I had time to watch people and see how people were doing. It way my turn to climb and I took one deep breathe and started climbing. All of the holds were jugs because we were climbing in the roof section of the gym. I was doing fine and the it started to lean back and I messed up one of the moves so I had to fix it. My way of fixing it was to hang by one hand, turn around and clipped my draw. I fixed what I had done wrong and continued up the route. I was doing fine and I got to the part where we had to turn around and climb down the nose part of the roof. I was getting pumped I have never climbed on a roof section before and wasn't really prepared for it. I made a move and just barely held on and made another move and slipped right off the hold. I was pretty happy with how I did because I have never climbed on a roof. I fell right before the 9th draw which was about 8 feet away from the last draw. I came down and attempted to untie my knot. I found my parents and sat down for a while and caught my breath. The swing of the fall caught my off guard. I packed up my gear and watched the last few people go. I was surprised by how far some of the other climbers made because they had climbed much better at Divisionals. The next day I was the 15th climber which was nice because I could climb earlier and not get as nervous. I warmed up and went back to watch one of the girls climb the route. I felt pretty good about the route and felt I would do better one it because it was more vertical. I started up the route and I was feeling good about it and made it through the section that seemed to be a little tough. I clipped my 6th draw and made up a few move and looked over the next few moves and realized how far apart the next few holds were. I took a break and thought over the next moves and ho I would go about the next two moves. I was able to just barely reach the next hold and the other wall but my feet popped off the holds. I wasn't able to get my feet back on because they were really far away. I fell and was turned around so I was a little freaked out because I was spinning on the rope but once I was able to stop, I got my knot untie and realized I never had a good hold on the next hold. They gave me the point for the hold which was nice because I really don't know if I had control of the hold completely. We left knowing that I wasn't going to make semi finals because they are taking only top 16 and after just one day I was in 34. So for my to advance I would have had to flash the route. I was happy with how I did because I was a little bit nervous about the routes but felt a lot better when I got on the wall. When I got on the wall the rest of the world was just muted and I was just climbing and focusing on what I need to do. I had a lot of fun and I am really excited for the up coming seasons in both Bouldering and Sport Climbing. After I finished climbing we packed up and headed for Milton, Florida. My older brother is living there currently training with helicopters. We got there Friday evening and then headed out to dinner with him and his wife. Saturday we spent the whole day at his house. Well mostly because he truck decided it didn't want to start. We ate dinner at their house that night and hung around till 8. Headed back for the hotel and went to bed because we were getting up early to start heading back home. The next morning we left and drove all the way to Louisville, Kentucky. Stayed the night there and the next morning finished the drive. We were home around 1:30 the next day. All of my videos and pictures are loaded to Facebook, Flickr and YouTube. Check them out because there are some pretty cool shots.
I would like to say a big thank to a sponsor who has helped me out the most this year. Thanks to FiveTen they have equipped me with climbing shoes and a ton of support which helped me get to nationals. I would also like to thank KASK Helmets, So ILL, ClimbTech, and PowerBar.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Hoosier Heights Division 3 Championships
This past weekend was Division 3 Championships. This is the last step before nationals. I have not been at divisionals in a since my first year. Last year was due to injury. I was really nervous going in because I was worried I wouldn't be ready for the routes that were set for our age group. At the same time I thought I was because I have been training really hard and knew I would be ready. I showed up in ISO and was really happy to know that I was for sure going out 4th in the running order. I sat around for alittle bit, they then went over rules and had us line up so we could go out for our route preview. My first route looked to be a 5.10 with a lot of really nice holds. The top of the route started to get a little bit more crimpy and the holds got a little bit smaller. Our second route looked like a lot of fun. The beginning of the route was all jugs. It then worked in to sloping jugs, then slopers, and finishing with a few really big crimps that were almost like jugs. The second route looked to be about a 5.12. We headed back to ISO and I started warming up by doing a few power moves so my legs would be warmed up. I then worked in to holding the really small holds so my hands would be ready for crimps and pinches. Once I was almost completely warmed up I went and I did a little stretching so I wouldnt hurt myself. I would jumping straight into route that might tear tendons if I didnt warm up and stretch before climbing. I finished warming up by doing a couple hanging exercises in the steeper wall. By the time I was finished warming up it my time to check in at the chair and get ready to climb. I handed my bag of to my coach and all I took with were my shoes, harness, chalk bag and bottle, the stick and my A Game. I headed down to my first chair and had 5 minutes to sit and tie in. After I tied into my rope I did a couple last minute stretches for my hands and forearms. Time was called for the climber than were climbing and transition was started. I handed my card to the route judge checked over my knot and the belayer. It was now my time to climb. I looked over the route one more time, mostly looking at the finishing moves. I flew through the first 4 draws. I got to a hold that wasnt quite an undercling but used it for my rest. During my rest I looked over the rest of the route. Figuring out the finishing moves of the route. I made it to the top and was very happy because I knew it would go pretty well on my second climb. I headed over to my second chair, where I waited and stretched my arms out. I knew this route would be tougher on the forearms because of the type of holds and the pitch of the wall. It's my turn to climb. I look over the route one last time and give it a go. The beginning was fairly easy we on move that was a little unbalanced. I made it through the parts that I thought I would have trouble with. I then found the rest just past the early crux, I took a break and looked over the finishing moves on the route. My arms were getting pumped, while the rest helped, I was still realitivly tired. I started up the route again and found another quick rest before getting into the steepest part of the wall. After each move my arms became increasingly tired. About 10 from the finish it, I had given my all and gave one final push to the next hold. It was a better hold than the one I was currently holding. I wrapped my fingers around it and some how held on. I was than able to push another 3 feet closer to the finish. I had gotten the high point I could tell just by the noise of the crowd. I came down attempted to untie my knot, needed alittle help. Went to go find my coach and talk to him and see how I did. He told me I had the high point from what he saw with the other two climbers ahead me. I was really excited yet nervous because there were still 8 climbers that needed to climb. I sat watch nervously. Assuming ever one had finished the first route. After watching everyone climb the second route I had figured I was sitting in about 8th place. I was sitting high enough where I would not be first to go out for finals. I was super excited. Because last time I had gone to divisionals I didn't make finals. Speed climbing was just getting started. I did my runs and my first climb I finished with a time of 21flat. My second climb I fell not to far from the start. We eases back for the hotel knowing that they would post the results of speed later. The next morning I was up and ready to go before ISO was even being unlocked to set up. We head over to the gym alittle bit after ISO was open. We checked in and found out that the FYB would also be climbing the same route as the FYA. So when we found out changed our game plan and goofed around till they were half through the FYB running order. I started warming up and thinking about the route and the type of holds that were on the route. I did some handing excersizes on slopers, crimps and pinches. After I finished the hangs, I went and did some stretches and some tuck jumps. I finished stretching and did leg warm ups. By the time I was finished warming up my name was being called to check in to the chair. I was sitting in the chair tiring into my rope getting ready for the climb. I was nervous all through ISO and now I'm really excited and I started scanning the crowd. Just to see what was going on. There were already 4 climbers in my division that went ahead of me. My turn to climb and I look at the route again. I only have 40 seconds to look it over which it plenty of time to do so. I climbed through the first 10 feet telling my self this is easy. I made it to the 6th draw and clipped it. It was a little bit of a reach but it helped me out. I made the clip and took a quick rest so I would not get tired out like I did on the second qualifier route. The volume had three foot chips screwed in to it. The next was rather easy. I held on and got my foot up high. I stood up for the next holding on. I tryed to move my feet up but popped off the hold. I came down and went to go find my coach. He was standing next to one of the regional coordinators. Tom had told me it was the high point so far. I sat and watched nervously. Knowing it would be close on weather or not I would go to nationals. All of the girl in my division finished and I knew I was at least 8th place. There was one girl I could not remember where she got on the route. We waited and waited and they started speed climbing but still did not post sport climbing results. Finally headed out te door to post results while much of the people we distracted by speed climbing. I followed them out and saw that I had placed 7th with a 2 hold lead on the 8th place person that was more than enough room for me to secure 7th place. I was really excited. My coach saw it and gave me a hug. We worked so hard between regionals and divisionals and its paying off. I didn't know what really to think at the time but I was shocked and extremely happy I made nationals. Mrs. Fields asked before results were posted if I thought I had made it and I told her it would be really close and of I did make it, it would be my first time going to nationals. She stopped by where they had posted results and asked and I told her I made it and she gave the biggest hug ever. She was really excited for me that I made nationals. All I had left to do was do my two climbs for speed. I was placed 9th after qualifiers for speed climbing. Which really surprised me. I warmed up and checked in. I waited till it was FYA's turn to go and I was going in the second group. My first climb I fell about 4 holds up, which was ok. My second climb I took my time in the beginning and them after the 4th hold I ran to the top. Since I took my time early I finished with a time of 21.95. Only a second slower than the day before. I was happy with my times because I'm not much of a speed climber. I was done and I packed my stuff up and put it in the truck. Texted everyone I knew that knew I was climbing that weekend what happened and that I was going to nationals. They did awards and started at the Youth-D division so it was going to be alittle bit before Youth-A was called. Our turn, I got my ribbon and my invite and had the biggest smile ever. Now it was time to show what I have at nationals.
All of the pictures of me climbing, of my ribbon and invite, almost with results are posted and loaded to my Facebook and Flickr accounts. All of the videos of my sport climbs and speed climbs are loaded to both my Facebook and YouTube accounts. Also a really big thanks to FiveTen who helped me out this year alot and helping me reach my goals. Also thanks to all my other sponsors such as So iLL, KASK Helmets and ClimbTech
Sunday, May 19, 2013
2013 SCS Regional Championships
This past weekend was SCS Midwest Regional Championship. It took place at Ibex climbing gym just outside Kansas City. The format was a little different than what we normally do at Regionals but it was fun. I was able to watch other team mates climb their routes. The format was a flash format which meant we could watch other competitors climb out routes and see how they work out the moves. Since it was a flash format you didn't have to do your routes in order. I climbed route #2 first then route #1 30 minutes later. I did pretty well on my first climb. I was really happy with how I did. I got to a spot that had slight power off a slopy foot chip. I made it through the rest of the route fine and found a really good rest spot. I knew how to do the move and I went to go attempt the move and got my hand on the hold but my foot popped off the sloper. I was really happy with how I attempted the route because the route was about a 5.11-. I had a 30 min break between routes which was nice because I could watch the others climbers climb the route. The route looked to be about a 5.10- which made it really nice because I would be able to do the route all the way through without any problem. It was my turn to climb and I made it to the fifth draw and found a rest that I took advantage of for about 2 minutes. I made to the top of the route just fine. I did the finishing move completely different from everyone else who climbed it. I knew it would be really close for me making it to finals before the girls that made it as for as I did may have gotten one more hold or one less hold. After I finsihed my second climb, I took a break to let my body cool down a little and let my muscles relax before speed climbing. About 30 minutes later I went back up to the warm up area and worked on power moves to help me out with speed climbing. I did intervals of power moves switching hands and making each move just alittle bit longer than the last one. The morning speed climbers were called and lined up in the order in which you were climbing. I was about 5 in the Female Youth-A line which meant I could see half of the people do their climbs. I was my turn and I was a little nervous because I am a very techinical climber. I did my two climbs and had a slowest time of 11.7 and fastest of 11.2. I was really shocked on how fast I did the climbs. When I finished my climbs I put my gear away and started watching the climbers in the afternoon session. We had Jack, who is a Youth-C and Michael A, who is a Youth-B. I was able to see Jack climb his first route but not Michael due to the speed climbing. Jack was clibming really good but he was making some of the moves too fast. Since he made a few moves to fast he was unable to hold on the hold and have good feet. He did really good and made it to finals. Michael did really well too. I missed going to finals literally by one hold. I go to the same spot as every one else did and clipped the same number of draws as 8th-10th place did. I was short by one hold. I was still really happy with how I did becuase I havent climbed a 5.11 lead in a little while. Jack made finals and he did really well because he took his time and didnt rush any move he just read the route wrong. He took 10th place in finals. I placed 11th and Michael took 14th. I ended up taking 7th in speed climbing and getting an invite to Divisionals in Indy at Hoosier Heights. All of the photos and vidoes are posted to Facebook, Flickr and YouTube. The vidoes are really cool especially the routes I had to climb.
Thursday, May 2, 2013
SCS Competitions
On April 7 we went down to Homewood, IL for the local SCS event. The gym was packed and they had their largest group if competitors ever. I was excited because I had a great turn out at the competition in St. Louis. The routes at Climb On are usually pretty pumpy because they are a shorter wall which makes it a little difficult to determine the grade of their route before you get on it. I got on a lower point route which was pretty easy so I jumped on something a little bit harder. I had a pretty good day of climbing. Some of the routes were a lot of power moves. That made it harder for me to finish them but most of them I was able to complete. I had a really good day of climbing and in the end I felt like I placed about 8th. Results came through and I had place 7th out of 13 girls. I was pretty happy with that because I felt really good about how I was climbing all day and the routes were hard. About a week later I got a call from Ben at White Mountain School and Climbing Camp. I had placed in the Top Ten for the nominations and had a chance to attend their school this summer. My parents and I called Ben and got more information on what needed to be done in order for me to attend this camp. We completed all the information and finished writing my essay that was needed. This camp is to help young climbers who want to become proficient in climbing and learn new techniques and training tips, along with how to climb outdoors. Learn how to set anchors, multi pitch climbing and a lot moe. It sounds like a lot of fun to go to and I can't wait to attend.
April 27, was the SCS Event at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison. We went up in the morning for the SCS Event. I didn't climb it because I was going to do there Open House Comp. I helped coach the younger climbers and help them get pumped and ready to climb. During the comp I was taking photos and coaching Lexi. She was in a slump because she was having a rough time getting in the mood of climbing. Once we got in the grove she was knocking routes of the list and going for the harder routes like hey were nothing. During the morning comp I filled a 8 gig memory card with a little over 1100 photos and two 3 min videos. Results for that comp were Lexi 8th place out of 13 girls. Jack L. 4th out of 11 boys. Jordan K. took 5th out of 10 boys. The afternoon comp was the Rock Candy Land comp. It was there open house competition which had all the same routes. Being there in the morning didn't give me any advantage because most of the other climbers in the afternoon were there coaching or were parents of climbers in the morning. I was competing in the open division. During my warm up I could tell today was going to be a good day because I was not sore and my forearm was not tight at all. I was competing in their hardest division (open) I warmed on what I believe was about a 5.9+ top route. I then warmed up lead on a 5.10-. It was a really nice warm up because the moves were a little longer but not so long that it was hard to make them. I then went on the flash the next 8 routes that I attempted. The three routes I was unable to complete were their harder routes in the gym. I was feeling pretty good about where my points were so I stopped climbing about 15 minutes before time was called but continued to belay so I would stay warm. I waited for results to be calculated by looking at some of the harder routes that I was going to attempted but voted against to save my self for finals. When they announced results, I was sitting in 2nd Place with 5400 points. The women sitting in first had 5475 points. I was really shocked how close the scores were. I was able to have my own belayer which was nice because I felt it pushed me a little further. I was going second for the girls. But they did their finals a little different then I have seen. They took the 4th Place male (a third place tie) and let him attempt his final route. They then took the 3rd place women and let her try, etc. I did my route and we were told the being part was about a 5.9 and maxed at a 5.12c. The beginning was really easy then when u clipped your first draw was when it got harder. I took a break in a really nice jug that really helped me get my arms back so I was able to climb the rest of the route. i had a little trouble with a move because it was a longer lunge with no feet behind me to get over there. i got the hold and clip my next draw and looked at the next few holds and notice that it was going to start getting a little difficult. I made it to through the next 4 draws and then made a move to a pinch and my left forearm just gave out. I came down and into the crowd and every one was congratulating me. The women in first went and she made it to the first draw and that was it. I had just won first place in open and I was in such shock I couldn't really believe it. There were two really cool prizes that the first place winners got to choice from. Andrew Nimmer choice the GriGri 2 so that left the new Petzl Spirit Quickdraws. During the two comps I took more than 1500 photos with 5 videos. All of them are posted to Facebook, Flickr and YouTube. Check them out because their are a ton of really neat pic. Also be sure to check out the video of the final route that I climbed.
Next weekend is 2013 SCS Midwest Regionals. I can't wait because I'm having such a great year and I feel this year is going to e the year. I'm super excited! This year I will be competing in both Sport climbing and Speed Climbing. Mainly focusing on Sport Climbing. I'm not totally ready for speed but its all good. This year is a trial run to see how things go. I cant want for Regionals. Be sure to watch for a new post after Regionals and a ton of new pictures.
April 27, was the SCS Event at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison. We went up in the morning for the SCS Event. I didn't climb it because I was going to do there Open House Comp. I helped coach the younger climbers and help them get pumped and ready to climb. During the comp I was taking photos and coaching Lexi. She was in a slump because she was having a rough time getting in the mood of climbing. Once we got in the grove she was knocking routes of the list and going for the harder routes like hey were nothing. During the morning comp I filled a 8 gig memory card with a little over 1100 photos and two 3 min videos. Results for that comp were Lexi 8th place out of 13 girls. Jack L. 4th out of 11 boys. Jordan K. took 5th out of 10 boys. The afternoon comp was the Rock Candy Land comp. It was there open house competition which had all the same routes. Being there in the morning didn't give me any advantage because most of the other climbers in the afternoon were there coaching or were parents of climbers in the morning. I was competing in the open division. During my warm up I could tell today was going to be a good day because I was not sore and my forearm was not tight at all. I was competing in their hardest division (open) I warmed on what I believe was about a 5.9+ top route. I then warmed up lead on a 5.10-. It was a really nice warm up because the moves were a little longer but not so long that it was hard to make them. I then went on the flash the next 8 routes that I attempted. The three routes I was unable to complete were their harder routes in the gym. I was feeling pretty good about where my points were so I stopped climbing about 15 minutes before time was called but continued to belay so I would stay warm. I waited for results to be calculated by looking at some of the harder routes that I was going to attempted but voted against to save my self for finals. When they announced results, I was sitting in 2nd Place with 5400 points. The women sitting in first had 5475 points. I was really shocked how close the scores were. I was able to have my own belayer which was nice because I felt it pushed me a little further. I was going second for the girls. But they did their finals a little different then I have seen. They took the 4th Place male (a third place tie) and let him attempt his final route. They then took the 3rd place women and let her try, etc. I did my route and we were told the being part was about a 5.9 and maxed at a 5.12c. The beginning was really easy then when u clipped your first draw was when it got harder. I took a break in a really nice jug that really helped me get my arms back so I was able to climb the rest of the route. i had a little trouble with a move because it was a longer lunge with no feet behind me to get over there. i got the hold and clip my next draw and looked at the next few holds and notice that it was going to start getting a little difficult. I made it to through the next 4 draws and then made a move to a pinch and my left forearm just gave out. I came down and into the crowd and every one was congratulating me. The women in first went and she made it to the first draw and that was it. I had just won first place in open and I was in such shock I couldn't really believe it. There were two really cool prizes that the first place winners got to choice from. Andrew Nimmer choice the GriGri 2 so that left the new Petzl Spirit Quickdraws. During the two comps I took more than 1500 photos with 5 videos. All of them are posted to Facebook, Flickr and YouTube. Check them out because their are a ton of really neat pic. Also be sure to check out the video of the final route that I climbed.
Next weekend is 2013 SCS Midwest Regionals. I can't wait because I'm having such a great year and I feel this year is going to e the year. I'm super excited! This year I will be competing in both Sport climbing and Speed Climbing. Mainly focusing on Sport Climbing. I'm not totally ready for speed but its all good. This year is a trial run to see how things go. I cant want for Regionals. Be sure to watch for a new post after Regionals and a ton of new pictures.
Sunday, March 17, 2013
No Holds Barred (warrenville) And Plastic Crushin (St. Louis)
It Saturday the 23rd, we headed to Vertical Endeavors in Warrenville, IL. We got there about 12:30 and started climbing around 1 pm. Everyone was belayed tested and climbing on their own by 2. I started by warming up on a 5.8 lead. The last time I was at V.E. they had a separate set of quickdraws at the top of the line. They did not have another set of quickdraws at the top of the route. This caused everyone who was lead climbing in out group to clip the last draw before the finish. The reason there were no top anchors was so that you have to pull the top rope down and then climb using that rope. I was a safety precautions so that no one would be trying to climb the same line as you. After I completed my warm up, I jumped on a 5.10c. This route was one of their longer routes because it went through the arch. This was there easiest route that they had in the arch way. The 5.11 that was there was most a roof until about 30 feet when it started to go back up the arch way. My second route I did was a 5.11a that went up the crack that they had. Half of the route was a lean back in the crack while the other half was a lean back on holds. I made it about three fourths the way up the route and then got a little lost on where the route went. The route was kind of run out with longer power moves. I took a break and stretched my arms out and figure out the last few moves of the route. I finished the route, at least what I could do. I jumped on a another 5.10c. This was rather easy for its length and the types of moves that it had. One move you had a hold around the corner of this natural and your next hold about 3 feet of the left of where you were. It was pretty fun. We went to lunch and after lunch I got on a 5.6 for a new warm up. I then got on a 5.10d; the moves in the route really weren't all that hard. The last few moves before the finish was what made it the 5.10 it was. I go on a few more 5.10-5.11 routes lead then started climbing 5.12-5.13s top rope. Saturday March 2, there was a competition at VE in Warrenville. This was my first climbing comp that I'm competiting in the open division. It was a little nerve racking because the whole team was competiting in this comp. So I didn't have a coach there to help through the whole thing. It was the first time that had happened and I just worked with it and talked with other competitors about the how the comp was going. I did one of the easier routes as a warm up which I flashed. I felt really good about how I was climbing. One of the routes was a lead route which was a lot of fun. The route started on the isotope and went up into the roof section for the wall. The route was about a 5.11b or c; I made it to the last draw before the finish and was super pumped out and then fell making a move to a round sloper. I finished in 6th place.
Saturday, March 9th we head to St. Louis' Upper Limits for the first SCS Event of the year. There was about 150 competitors, four teams and Team Climb This. We were the farthest traveled. We were a team of three for this comp. They had routes for the new climbers and routes for kids who have been climbing a long time. We started climbing and a really easy route just to get the rope climbing warm up in. Then I jumped in a 5.9 that was really easy for me and got on a 5.10- lead route. I got on some routes that were about 5.12 and made it about 3/4 the way up the route and fell. One route was rather easy and I made it to where every one was getting stuck and was making a move up and then my hand hold spun causing me to lose balance and fall. They went up and fixed the hold and I got a second chance at it. I went up the second time and went through it rather easy and got to the same spot and my arms were pumped and I moved up and my foot popped off. I wasn't worried because I had a lot of high point routes and already. Now there was 45 minutes left of climbing and I was reaching the end if my day. I jumped on some routes that got ride of the lower point routes. I was able to get three of my lower point routes crossed off with higher point routes. I was on a route that was worth 3500 points and they called 5 minutes. I was able to finish the route with two minutes left and my brother was on a route I needed just to get rid of one more set of points. The other route that I could have gotten on had like 10 people still in line. My brother finished the route and I let Michael go, new team member, I let him get on the route so he could get some points. Time was called and I was very happy with how I did t this weekend because I didn't call on to many route and of I did I was able to finish them on my second try. I finished with a little over 12,000 points. I was happy I was thinking about 3 or 4th place. Awards came around they announced that first place for Female-Youth-A had a little over 14,000 points. I was think about 4th. And they announced 2nd and I got second place. I was about 6,000 points ahead of the 3rd place. I'm really happy with how I did and that was my first time I placed second in a SCS Event. All the pictures and videos are loaded to Facebook, Flickr and YouTube. Check them out their are a ton of awesome pics from the comp and from our warm up before the comp.
Saturday, March 9th we head to St. Louis' Upper Limits for the first SCS Event of the year. There was about 150 competitors, four teams and Team Climb This. We were the farthest traveled. We were a team of three for this comp. They had routes for the new climbers and routes for kids who have been climbing a long time. We started climbing and a really easy route just to get the rope climbing warm up in. Then I jumped in a 5.9 that was really easy for me and got on a 5.10- lead route. I got on some routes that were about 5.12 and made it about 3/4 the way up the route and fell. One route was rather easy and I made it to where every one was getting stuck and was making a move up and then my hand hold spun causing me to lose balance and fall. They went up and fixed the hold and I got a second chance at it. I went up the second time and went through it rather easy and got to the same spot and my arms were pumped and I moved up and my foot popped off. I wasn't worried because I had a lot of high point routes and already. Now there was 45 minutes left of climbing and I was reaching the end if my day. I jumped on some routes that got ride of the lower point routes. I was able to get three of my lower point routes crossed off with higher point routes. I was on a route that was worth 3500 points and they called 5 minutes. I was able to finish the route with two minutes left and my brother was on a route I needed just to get rid of one more set of points. The other route that I could have gotten on had like 10 people still in line. My brother finished the route and I let Michael go, new team member, I let him get on the route so he could get some points. Time was called and I was very happy with how I did t this weekend because I didn't call on to many route and of I did I was able to finish them on my second try. I finished with a little over 12,000 points. I was happy I was thinking about 3 or 4th place. Awards came around they announced that first place for Female-Youth-A had a little over 14,000 points. I was think about 4th. And they announced 2nd and I got second place. I was about 6,000 points ahead of the 3rd place. I'm really happy with how I did and that was my first time I placed second in a SCS Event. All the pictures and videos are loaded to Facebook, Flickr and YouTube. Check them out their are a ton of awesome pics from the comp and from our warm up before the comp.
Saturday, February 9, 2013
Quick on the Draw-2013
January 26 the team headed up to Adventure Rock for the in house competition. I was competing in advance while most of the team was competing in intermediate. I started off by getting a warm up of different types of holds. I was going to be a different day because I had just recently cut my finger while climbing a few days before, so I was missing the pad of my finger. After my warm up they went over rules then the climbing started. I warmed up on one of the lower point routes. I then started to work my way up in points. The first route I did was about a 5.10. The holds that were on the route had small pinches sticking off the holds. I finished the route but it was a little difficult. One of my lead routes was about a 5.12 and I was able to make it to the second draw and fell. This route was just a bunch of huge pinches and some of them are so big they are hard to grab. My other lead route had purple crimps on it. I t was relatively easy but when I had to make a drop knee move and lean back in to a hold I was unable to grab the route due to the cut on my finger. The bouldering problems that I had to do were a lot of fun. One of them you had to go under the bridge part of the wall and up the back side. It was a really cool route because in order to do the move you had to heel hock the hold that you are still holding on to. The back side of the route did not get any easier, the holds became big slopers and a couple small crimps. I completed 3 of my 7 routes and 3 of my 5 boulder problems. The wait for the bouldering problems was really long so i wasted a lot of time that I could have used to get a second chance on routes that I did not finish. I finished my last attempt on a boulder problem and had 30 secs to get on the wall. Since I left the easiest route for last that is where I went because every one else in that division had already completed this route. I was on the wall when there was 3 seconds left on the clock. I got to finish my attempt on that route. I took my time making sure that I was not rushing any moves that may cost me my attempt on that route. As I got closer to the top to more excited I got because I knew I was going to be able to finish this route with ease. When I was done I headed out to the truck to put extra gear away and waited for results to be posted. I was really happy with how I did because I had cut my finger pad off just days before. When I saw that I took 15th I was pretty happy with that because I had just started climbing back to normal again. In between the morning session and the afternoon session I went and got food. During the afternoon session I was taking photos of kids that are on the team that were climbing. When they were not climbing I was watching the people in Open climb their route. It was super cool to watch how they climb and how hard their routes are. When the afternoon was over we waited for results to be posted and for them to announce what time finals would actually be taking place. We stayed to watch all the finals along with taking videos of each climber that was in finals. We did not stick on for awards because we were too tired and wanted to get home before everyone started to leave.
That Monday we headed back up to Adventure Rock to give another shot at the routes that I was unable to finish. I attempted the Women Advanced final route and made it to the same sport as three of the competitors did. I was really happy with how I did Monday because I completed some routes that I did not finish or have the option to attempt. All videos and photos from the competition including the final videos are all loaded to Facebook, Flickr, and YouTube. Check them out because there are a lot of really neat photos of the routes that I had to do.
That Monday we headed back up to Adventure Rock to give another shot at the routes that I was unable to finish. I attempted the Women Advanced final route and made it to the same sport as three of the competitors did. I was really happy with how I did Monday because I completed some routes that I did not finish or have the option to attempt. All videos and photos from the competition including the final videos are all loaded to Facebook, Flickr, and YouTube. Check them out because there are a lot of really neat photos of the routes that I had to do.
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