Saturday, June 9, 2012
Memorial Day Climbing Weekend
These past two weeks have been super crazy with climbing and improvements all around. Saturday, the 26th, we went to the YMCA to climb there for about 3 hours. I warmed up by climbing a 5.9 lead and then worked my way up in to the higher grades. I pushed my self pretty hard but at the same time wanted to save myself alittle for Sunday. Sunday, we headed up to Governor Dodge State Park to climb at the Qual Wall. Sunday was about 92 degrees and humid. The only place that was alittle cooler was up against the rock under the overhang.We messed a little on determining which route was what but we figured it out. The Qual Wall was sandstone and I found it really hard to climb. I started off on a top rope route that was a 5.10 and it wasn't to bad. It was more under clingy than anything else. Nearing the top of the route there was a ledge that u had to walk up but it was just like a hill. The second route I did was a 5.10 sport route. The beginning of the route till the third draw was pretty easy then the moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts/ quick draws was pretty hard and it took a while to get to the 5th bolt. I came down after I clipped the the rope in because my arms were pumped. Kaz went after me on the same route and it took him 3 falls to get past the 5th quick draw then the top I guess was very easy. Kaz tried to set up another route that was a 5.12 but you were unable to get to it from the top section. This meant you have to sport climb the route in order to creat a toprope climb. The first 20 feet of the route were unprotected so he brought up a couple cams and nuts with him till he made his first bolt. He made it up to the 3rd bolt on the route which had 6 bolts on it. The day was really nice but it was hot and everyone there was tired and we decided to start packing up. We got home about 9pm Sunday. Monday, we headed up to Jakes Rock in Halescorners. Jakes Rock is a bouldering rock that has some pretty hard problems on it along with some easier ones. I spent mojority of the time working on a problem that gave everyone a hard time. The problem was rated a V4-V5 about 20 minutes of working on the route I finally got it. Once I got it the route seemed to be a cakewalk after that. After That i found another problem that gave me a challenge so I worked on that was a while till about 2pm. My hands were torn up by that time so I decided that I was done climbing for the weekend. All of the photos from Governor Dodge State Park and Jakes Rock are posted to both my Flickr and Facebook account. Along with all videos from both climbing places.
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