Friday, March 30, 2012
Awesome Days of Climbing
These last two weeks went by pretty fast. Friday I helped out at the Y till 8pm. It was pretty cool because roan and spencer we're both doing really good. Spencer is making it to the top of easy like its nothing and Roan is making its a little past half way. Saturday comes and I'm super psyched but I get to go to Adventure Rock. We got there and jumped straight in the lead climbing. I warned up on two 5.8s then worked in to the harder routes. I tried a new route that was just set and fell one time on it then about 15 minutes later I went back and flashed it. After flashing it I realized what I did wrong the first going at it. All in all it was a really good day leading climbing because I flashed everything that I tried. After a lunch/dinner break we went into the bouldering part of my program. For bouldering I started out on a V3. Bouldering actually went really well because I tried a V6 and got 4 moves in on it. I kept trying the route and started to figure out you had to have your body a certain way otherwise the next move doesn't work to well. I gave it one more shot before my body was toast. I gave it shot and got half a move farther which I was really happy with. Sunday I went to my buddies bike race. Since there were only 4 people in the category 1+2s race, the officials combined them with the category 3 riders. Now in stead of 4 people there's 30. He took 3rd place in his category. Overall the weekend was really fun including all the sun we had here in Wisconsin. I got a tan which is good so I'm set for the summer now. Monday we had climbing classes which was pretty fun because everyone was in a good mood and making jokes. Monday night I found out that I was going to get to meet Alex David Johnson. I was super excited because I look up to him both as a climber and a person. Tuesday comes and I get to spend the next 3.5 hours with him. Around 3:30pm we all headed to the Y to climb. Alex is an amazing climber and really showed me a lot of new things that I could work on. I'm still super psyched about being able to meet him. On the 24th we headed up to Adventure Rock where we spent the next 8 hours climbing. My rope climbing was good but wasn't really where I would have liked it to be. On the Advance Women Final route from Quick on the Draw I got 4 moves farther on it and was able to make my next quickdraw. I was really happy I was able to get farther on it. At the same time a little upset that I couldn't get any farther than where I got. I guess I have a new challenge spot on this route. After climbing I headed in to the bouldering caves where I wouldn't sit still even during my breaks. During my breaks I would go to the campus board and work on that. Bouldering I warmed up on a V3 then jumped straight into the V6's and higher. I found a new project bouldering problem I got about to the same spot that I did the week before. I was really happy with that because of how off of a day I was having. I tried this route a bunch of times until I figured I would be able to hold on to the holds any longer. After I get done with the bouldering problem, I went to the front desk to get the stuff needed for the Treadwall to work. Once I got everything set up I set up a program for me to do. I set the program on the 5.11 after doing a quick warm up on it at different speeds and degrees. After I completed both the warm up and the 5.11 program, I set up my next program with was a 5.13 with a minimum degree of 20. The program was 3 minutes long and I made it to 1.25 minutes. Sunday was my day off so I get to go to my buddies bike race. I was pretty nice out but as it got later in the day the windier it got. For the series he took 3rd place in the Cat. 1 / 2s. Monday I had school which was pretty fun we did a lot of study for finals in my geometery class. Tuesday I got to miss school because I had a doctors appointment in Marshfield for a hearing test. Wednesday we took team practice outside to Estreet bridge. The routes we tried were really cool but hard at the same time. The rock was also really cold so if you stayed on it too long ur hand would be really cold. My season starts in a week officially at the competition in Homewood, IL. I can't wait for this years season to start because I am feeling really good about how I am climbing lately.
Monday, March 5, 2012
Amazing Climbing Weekend
This weekend was an amazing weekend for rock climbing. Friday I helped work open climb where Roan and Spencer came in. Spencer made it to the top of easy and Roan is making it to the 3rd quick draw on easy. They have gotten really good lately and I am proud of them. Saturday was the day of my competition at No Holds Barred. The day started off with me checking in and wondering around the gym to look at my routes. Once I saw all my routes; I went back to figure out which on I was going to do as a warm up. I made my decision and went back to my bag and started to get ready. The gym had a competitors meeting which shortly after the clock would start for climbing. The clock started and i got my name in like about 5 people down. I watched the people before me climb this route and it seemed that there was two crux's in the route. One early in the route and the other right before the finish. My turn on the route and I got a little tripped up at the first crux but I figured it out and cruised through the rest of the route, including the second crux. I came down from the route and headed straight to the second route. This route wasn't to bad but gave me a challenge. I went to the harder routes to give them a try to earn more points. I only finished one more route after that but made it two or three holds from the top on all the rest of them. Once I had tried all of the top rope routes I head to the bouldering section. I was really happy with how my bouldering went because the routes I was given were about V6 or V7. The first route i tried was a really nice problem but i was unable to stick a hold when powering up to it. Now I was attempted every route and boulder problem and the 4 hours to climb is almost up. I turned in my score card and went to my locker where my climbing bag was and put back any extra stuff I wouldn't need in case I made it to finals. They came back with results and they called the 4th place person. I was really nervous because I kinda didn't think i was going to make it to finals, considering I only completed 3 total route." In third place, Kolbi Lackey!" I stood up and gave my brother a high five thinking "oh my god I made it to finals wow!" I headed back to isolation kinda surprised to see every one there giving each other pointers on how to do something if you think you are unable to do it. The females advanced went first; I was going second in the running ordering. I get my climbing shoes on, put my chalk bag on and check my harness over one last time before my climb. I hear my name called saying that the crowd was ready for me to come out. I came out and everyone was really impressed with my chalk bag that I was wearing. I got to my route talked over everything with my belayer as I was tying in to my rope. I started climbing and the crowd started to roar. From the start of the route I knew I was gonna be able to complete the route. Making my third quickdraw I took a break to shake my arms out and to kind of rest my body. I started at the other half of the route; I made my 4 quickdraw and moved up to the crimpy rock that was a little hard to hold on it. I moved my feet up and started to stand up for the next hold. I realized my hand was not set on the hold so I slowly moved back down to adjust my hand. Now, I started to move back up to the next rock and all of a sudden i realized I was falling due to my foot slipping off of my foot hold. I was a little upset with that but there wasn't a whole lot i could do about it. I was still happy all consider that this was my first real final set up. I sat down to watched the rest of the finals and I was really impressed with the other climbers. At the end, my placement was 4th due to not making it as far as the other girls did on the route. I texted my mom and my dad because they were unable to make this competition due to work interference. We got home and I sat down to relax and not do a whole lot more. Sunday I didnt do my lifting program because i had to the competition yesterday. I helped work open climb at the Y then climbed at team practice. For team practice I work on a bunch of routes that I am unable to do lead climbing. Most of the routes I am unable to do at the Y are the route I set or my brother sets to give me a challenge. Monday I had school which went by really fast then helped teach climbing classes at the Y. After classes were over I went to the weight room with my brother to do a couple set of the bench press. I started off with a warm up bench of putting 15 pounds on each side. I pumped 10 reps through like noting was there. After I did that set I put 25 pounds on each side of the bar and did 7 reps before it started to give me a challenge. I would have to say that this weekend was a great weekend of climbing and hope that every weekend I have a competition would go like it did this weekend. All photos and videos are loaded to Facebook, Flickr, and you tube. Check them out and see all the cool things that went on this weekend.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
New Program is Tough
I'm on this new training program is its really tough. I can tell that it helping me out a lot I cant want until I start a new program. Well the program I am on now is really cool because it does a lot of need exercises that I love. Friday the 17th, I helped worked open climb at the Kenosha Y. We weren't all that busy so I got a lot of work done. Around 7pm Roan and Spencer came in to climb. Spencer made it to the top his first climb of the day and he dad was really proud of him; he even got Spencer Bubble Gum. I was really proud of him because it took him only 5 weeks to make it to the top and he did it by him self. Saturday the 18th was a lot of because I went with my mom to Naperville, IL. I went with her because she as setting up for a meeting at the Westen hotel in Lombard. Our room was on the 18th floor and you could see downtown Chicago from her room. It was really cool to see that. I helped her sent up the Xbox Kinect and made sure it worked. Saturday was a lot of fun all around!! On the 19th, we headed back to Kenosha to set up for a climbing party. After the party I worked on my Eschool so I could catch up. During league I did a bunch of lead climbing to get ready for the competition on the 3rd of march. I worked on lead laps to help boost my mental game. Monday went by really fast, as did Tuesday. But Wednesday was crawling on. Finally it was 6pm and I could climb! We did a really hard climbing work out which included weighted pull ups, weighted climb, one handed bouldering, and lead climbing laps. Thursday at club we were designing our new car that we are going to build for next year. We worked on that and bounced ideas off each other for about 4 hours. Friday was fun because school went by really fast and then climbing was really cool because it was not that busy so I could get some homework done. Around 7pm Spencer and Roan came in and Spencer again made it to the top of the wall on his first try. I am really happy with how is doing and he keeps getting better. Roan made it about 18 ft up the wall and that is the farthest he has made it. Saturday I couldn't wait till 230 because then we got to go to Adventure Rock! While at Adventure Rock we did our warm up and then jumped right into the harder routes. We did a lot of 5.10+ lead climbs. I was really happy with how I did Saturday. After 4 hours of rope climbing we headed into the bouldering cave. In the bouldering cave we did one warm up then started going the V5-V6 routes. A route that I am projecting I got 3 moves farther on. This project route is a V6 or V7 I am really happy with how I am doing because the highest grade I have finished is a V4. I worked on this route for about 3 hours! It was a lot of fun and I am really happy with how I am doing bouldering wise. My grade goes up little by little each week. Sunday was the start of trying to get Trango Climbing as a sponsor. If you go to there Facebook page and post something about why I should be on their team. This is going on till Thursday, March 1, 2012. I'm competing at VE in Warrenville on March 3 in the advanced category. I cant wait for the season to start and for the regional event!
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Training Days Kicking it Hard
Since I had my competition on the 28th of January I took almost a week of recovery due to my back locking up. After a good long day of stretching it slowing started to loosen back up. On the 3rd, I went to the Y and climbed for about 2 hours. Once I completed my climbs, I helped up a good friend learn a bunch of new anchoring system so that he is all ready to go by the time outdoor climbing season comes around in this lovely state of Wisconsin. The 4th was a good day for climbing and a great day for bouldering! Before we left to go to Adventure Rock I worked on my eschool class for about 3 hours. Around 12:30 I headed to the Y to help with a climbing party. Finally 2:00pm comes, we can go to Adventure Rock and we jumped right into the top rope when we got there then into the harder routes that I was unable to completed during the competition. I did a lot of top route and lead climbing. For the day, all the routes were over 5.10+ I was really happy with how I did because I completed the female advanced final route. That really made me happy that I was able to do that route. After a really long day of rope climbing, we headed to the bouldering caves. Aah, the bouldering caves, they gave us a big challenge. We attempted V4 and up due to the fact that the V3s just became to easy. We found this one V6 that is really a ton of fun; we have decided that was going to become our project route for sometime. On the 5th I had league where I took more time to work on my lead climbing. I also helped completed a new 5.9 that we set, its a lot of fun. On the 6th we had rock climbing classes which was fun. On the 8th, I had weight training and a really hard but well worth it. For training I did my warm up and went right in my weighted climbing. For that I did 4 laps with three sets. After weighted climbing, I did weighted pull ups. After everything else was done I did lead climbing laps. Thursday I had Supermilage Club which was really cool because I got to drive the car. On Saturday, we headed to Adventure Rock. While we were there I did 2 hours of roped climbing which we mostly did 5.11s lead and I got alittle more than half way up on them. After my 2 hours of climbing, I headed to the bouldering caves to do alittle more than 3 hours of bouldering. We did mostly V5 and V6 problems. I was getting more than half way up on those to. I was really happy with how everything went this weekend. Sunday I had weight training and climbing league. During climbing league I worked on a bunch of harder routes!! In the next month I will be in Warrenville climbing. One day for training and on March 3rd for their competition. This past week I got news that I was apart of the Powerbars Advisory Board. I am really pyched about being on this board because they make really good products plus this will be my first sponsor.
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
First Comp of the Season!!
What a way to start off the season! The 21st I spent five hours at Adventure Rock getting in one last really hard day before Quick on the Draw!! The day went really well. I was really happy with how I did because I completed multiple routes that I have been having a hard time with. Some of them I did lead too, so I'm really happy with how things are going a week before the comp! I was able to complete a 5.10+ lead climbing it. That route was one that I have been working on for about three weeks. The 22nd I was able to work on a bunch of little things that still needed to be improved before the competition Saturday. I helped teach classes on the 23rd which was fun because I got to help teach a kid how to belay. For team practice/ meeting, on the 25th, we did a ton of little thing that make a big difference at the competitions. During practice I was able to work on a bunch of hand technique and a bunch of practice lead falls. On the 26th I had finals at school which went really well then I got a massage which afterwards I felt amazing!! The day before that comp I was able to sit and do nothing all day because of school being out, so I got the whole day to relax. Around 4:30 I headed to the y to go swim for about an hour so that I could help my muscles be ready for the comp. After I was done in the pool I had to opportunity to help Roan and Spencer out for a little over an hour. They boys are so much fun and I really enjoy working with them because they help me become a calmer person both on the wall and off the wall. They also gave me a Valentine card which I will keep forever because it will help me remember what they have showed me over time.Saturday morning we left my house at 7 for head up to Adventure Rock, we got there at 7:45. Once the team got checked in we were listening to music and getting ready for climbing. Rules were complete at 830 and we started climbing at 9. I was competing is the advanced disivion. All of my routes were anywhere from a 5.9+ to a 5.11+ both top rope and lead climbing. I was giving 12 different routes mixed with top rope lead climbing and bouldering out of the 12 i completed 5, was about 10 from the top on 4, and was not to far along and the harder routes/problems. I am guessing that some of my routes were higher than 5.11+s. I am happy with how I did considering that 7-13 places were within 500 points of each other. For the day I took 12th place overall. Sunday after the comp, I headed to the Y to do a recovery day to help the body get all back and ready.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Back in the Grove!!
Last couple weeks went great!! On the 5th I had Supermilage club after school. It was a lot of fun because we finished up the engine and was able to take it out and drive it. I will also be one of the people driving our car because it is so small. Afterwards I went to the Y and set a new route that I am working on. I set a couple routes before that, that I am unable to complete. I am really happy I can set something that gives me a challenge because then it will help me getting better at this sport. On the 6th I worked on a bunch of homework and then helped out Roan and Spencer when they came. They are really a lot of fun because they really like climbing and each week they get better at it. On the 7th I worked open climb and then headed up to Adventure rock where I had a really good top rope. I was able to complete a 5.11+ that I have been working on for two weeks now. I completed multiple routes that I have been working on for quite some time. Once I was done top roping for the day I went to the bouldering caves and did about 2 hours of bouldering. I was able to complete a bunch of routes that higher than I normally can climb. I am really happy that I am climbing a lot harder grades and lead climbing harder grades. On the 8th I got to learn a bunch of new climbing things. I got to learn how to trad climb and practiced for about an hour with just cams. After I got more comfortable with those, I moved to hexes and stoppers (or nuts). I got pretty comfortable with those too pretty fast because I have an awesome coach that helped me get them right. A couple times he was climbing next to me to show me how to do it right and help me see what was not correct and what was. After all that I spent about 10-15mins taking lead falls to still keep up with that and get back into that grove. On the 9th we had climbing classes which was a lot of fun because there were learning how to tie their knots. After they did that, they got to learn bouldering and the commands for that. After classes I had a core workout which was hard but it was only my second week into doing my core workouts again. On the 11th I had a test at school which I got an A on it. After school I went to the Y to do my lifting program which I had gone up in weight for almost everything. My bench press was bumped up 10 pounds to 80 pounds (total which is also 75% of my body weight). On the 12th I had club which we are so close to being done with our car and then we will be starting a new car. All we have left to put on that car is the body panels and to paint it. I got to go climbing after we finished up club for the day. While I was climbing I was able to complete the routes that I have been working on for a week and half. On the 13th I worked open climb and helped Roan and Spencer when they came in. They did so good; they both got higher on all of the walls they tried. Saturday I went to Adventure Rock where I was able to get on a bunch of new routes that were set for the High School Competition. I was able to complete seven out the nine I tried and three of them I was able to complete lead climbing them. On Sunday I was did another lifting program which went really well!! For climbing I worked on placing cams and nuts again. Monday I watched a movie on reptiles for a half day which was really cool. Then I went home and relaxed for about 3 hours before I had to go to work and teach climbing classes. Today I a lifting program which I went up 10 pounds again. So I have now benching 90 pounds and can bench 85% of my body weight. I went in to the training mode for rock climbing and did a whole bunch of practice lead falls to get back in to that. Those actually went really well and I was able to complete a bunch of routes lead climbing them. I am really happy with how today went. I also got a new climbing chalk bag that is a grey wolf chalk pot. It is pretty beast looking and I am really happy about it and like it a lot! All photos from the past couple weeks and today have been loaded to facebook and will shortly be uploaded to flickr. This summer should be a great summer because we have planning a trip to Utah to go to Mt. Zion for a week of climbing!! Its going to be blast and I just cannot wait until this trip commes around.
Wednesday, January 4, 2012
Winter Break
Christmas break so far has been a lot of fun!! On the 23rd we headed up to adventure rock for about 5 hours. There I was climbing a lot of 5.10s or higher to work on moves and routes that I need to work on that I have been having trouble with. At work I got to help on a 5 year old that has autism for about two hours. He is a lot of fun and I really like to work with him. Working with Roan has really helped me both as a person and a climber. Christmas Eve I helped work the rock wall till 1pm after that I went home and helped my mom bake a bunch of cookies and played games. For Christmas I got a bunch of new jeans, t-shirts, hoodies, a climbing hoodie and three new games for the PS3. On the 26th my mom, older brother, little brother, and I all went to the Harley Davidson Museum. We were there for about 3 hours and then we headed to Fridays Front Row at Miller Park for lunch. We got home about 4pm and then sat down and relaxed after a long day of walking. On the 28th we went to Adventure Rock for about 6 hours. While we were there, I did 3 hours of top rope and lead climbing. While I was top rope climbing I flashed a 5.11- and completed about 85% of a 5.11+. After that I started working on a bunch of climbs that were 5.10+ or higher because I was having a good day. Lead climbing, I completed 90% of a route that I have been projecting for a month before my accident, which is a 5.10+. After a fun and tiring day on the ropes I went to the bouldering caves. In the bouldering caves I spent the next 3 hours working on my bouldering to make sure that it matches my rope climbing (they do). While I was bouldering I completed four routes that I have been working on for a week and half. I am really happy with how I have been climbing lately. All considering its only my third week back climbing after everything went down. My climbing is back to where it was if not higher than it was before my accident. On the 29th, I helped with the installment of a volume at my local rock wall. It looks really cool and looks like it has been there for years. I took a break, some time to relax and figure out what I wanted to do for climbing for the night. The 30th I helped work open climb and help some buddies with learning how to lead climb. New years eve we had open climb and then a new year eve party till 10. They did a simulated countdown to midnight for the kids. At the rock wall we had over 75 people come through in 2.5 hours. On the 1st we headed up to adventure rock where we spent 6 hours climbing. During that time I completed multiple 5.10+ and 5.11s. I just missed flashing a 5.11 lead when my foot slipped off a rock at the top of the route. I was really bummed out about the fall but I am still happy with how I did. I also attempted two other 5.11s that I got half way up on. On the 2nd I didn't do to much but it help my body recover from all of the climbing lately. Around 430 I headed to the Y to help teach climbing classes then after classes I did a core work out. Today, the 4th, was my first day back at school after school I headed to the Y to do a new work out. I got an hour to sit back and relax before I got to do a harder work out. Nearing the end of my work out I did a bunch of practice lead falls. I am still working on the lead falls to get back in the swing of lead climbing for competitions. All of the photos for the past two weeks have been uploaded and the vidoes will be up by the thrusday night.
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