2013 SCS Regional Championships

This past weekend was SCS Midwest Regional Championship. It took place at Ibex climbing gym just outside Kansas City. The format was a little different than what we normally do at Regionals but it was fun. I was able to watch other team mates climb their routes. The format was a flash format which meant we could watch other competitors climb out routes and see how they work out the moves. Since it was a flash format you didn't have to do your routes in order. I climbed route #2 first then route #1 30 minutes later. I did pretty well on my first climb. I was really happy with how I did. I got to a spot that had slight power off a slopy foot chip. I made it through the rest of the route fine and found a really good rest spot. I knew how to do the move and I went to go attempt the move and got my hand on the hold but my foot popped off the sloper. I was really happy with how I attempted the route because the route was about a 5.11-. I had a 30 min break between routes which was nice because I could watch the others climbers climb the route. The route looked to be about a 5.10- which made it really nice because I would be able to do the route all the way through without any problem. It was my turn to climb and I made it to the fifth draw and found a rest that I took advantage of for about 2 minutes. I made to the top of the route just fine. I did the finishing move completely different from everyone else who climbed it. I knew it would be really close for me making it to finals before the girls that made it as for as I did may have gotten one more hold or one less hold. After I finsihed my second climb, I took a break to let my body cool down a little and let my muscles relax before speed climbing. About 30 minutes later I went back up to the warm up area and worked on power moves to help me out with speed climbing. I did intervals of power moves switching hands and making each move just alittle bit longer than the last one. The morning speed climbers were called and lined up in the order in which you were climbing. I was about 5 in the Female Youth-A line which meant I could see half of the people do their climbs. I was my turn and I was a little nervous because I am a very techinical climber. I did my two climbs and had a slowest time of 11.7 and fastest of 11.2. I was really shocked on how fast I did the climbs. When I finished my climbs I put my gear away and started watching the climbers in the afternoon session. We had Jack, who is a Youth-C and Michael A, who is a Youth-B. I was able to see Jack climb his first route but not Michael due to the speed climbing. Jack was clibming really good but he was making some of the moves too fast. Since he made a few moves to fast he was unable to hold on the hold and have good feet. He did really good and made it to finals. Michael did really well too. I missed going to finals literally by one hold. I go to the same spot as every one else did and clipped the same number of draws as 8th-10th place did. I was short by one hold. I was still really happy with how I did becuase I havent climbed a 5.11 lead in a little while. Jack made finals and he did really well because he took his time and didnt rush any move he just read the route wrong. He took 10th place in finals.  I placed 11th and Michael took 14th. I ended up taking 7th in speed climbing and getting an invite to Divisionals in Indy at Hoosier Heights. All of the photos and vidoes are posted to Facebook, Flickr and YouTube. The vidoes are really cool especially the routes I had to climb.

SCS Competitions

On April 7 we went down to Homewood, IL for the local SCS event. The gym was packed and they had their largest group if competitors ever. I was excited because I had a great turn out at the competition in St. Louis. The routes at Climb On are usually pretty pumpy because they are a shorter wall which makes it a little difficult to determine the grade of their route before you get on it. I got on a lower point route which was pretty easy so I jumped on something a little bit harder. I had a pretty good day of climbing. Some of the routes were a lot of power moves. That made it harder for me to finish them but most of them I was able to complete. I had a really good  day of climbing and in the end I felt like I placed about 8th. Results came through and I had place 7th out of 13 girls. I was pretty happy with that because I felt really good about how I was climbing all day and the routes were hard. About a week later I got a call from Ben at White Mountain School and Climbing Camp. I had placed in the Top Ten for the nominations and had a chance to attend their school this summer. My parents and I called Ben and got more information on what needed to be done in order for me to attend this camp. We completed all the information and finished writing my essay that was needed. This camp is to help young climbers who want to become proficient in climbing and learn new techniques and training tips, along with how to climb outdoors. Learn how to set anchors, multi pitch climbing and a lot moe. It sounds like a lot of fun to go to and I can't wait to attend.

April 27, was the SCS Event at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison. We went up in the morning for the SCS Event. I didn't climb it because I was going to do there Open House Comp. I helped coach the younger climbers and help them get pumped and ready to climb. During the comp I was taking photos and coaching Lexi. She was in a slump because she was having a rough time getting in the mood of climbing. Once we got in the grove she was knocking routes of the list and going for the harder routes like hey were nothing. During the morning comp I filled a 8 gig memory card with a little over 1100 photos and two 3 min videos. Results for that comp were Lexi 8th place out of 13 girls. Jack L. 4th out of 11 boys. Jordan K. took 5th out of 10 boys. The afternoon comp was the Rock Candy Land comp. It was there open house competition which had all the same routes. Being there in the morning didn't give me any advantage because most of the other climbers in the afternoon were there coaching or were parents of climbers in the morning. I was competing in the open division.  During my warm up I could tell today was going to be a good day because I was not sore and my forearm was not tight at all. I was competing in their hardest division (open) I warmed on what I believe was about a 5.9+ top route. I then warmed up lead on a 5.10-.  It was a really nice warm up because the moves were a little longer but not so long that it was hard to make them. I then went on the flash the next 8 routes that I attempted. The three routes I was unable to complete were their harder routes in the gym. I was feeling pretty good about where my points were so I stopped climbing about 15 minutes before time was called but continued to belay so I would stay warm. I waited for results to be calculated by looking at some of the harder routes that I was going to attempted but voted against to save my self for finals. When they announced results, I was sitting in 2nd Place with 5400 points. The women sitting in first had 5475 points. I was really shocked how close the scores were. I was able to have my own belayer which was nice because I felt it pushed me a little further. I was going second for the girls. But they did their finals a little different then I have seen. They took the 4th Place male (a third place tie) and let him attempt his final route. They then took the 3rd place women and let her try, etc. I did my route and we were told the being part was about a 5.9 and maxed at a 5.12c. The beginning was really easy then when u clipped your first draw was when it got harder. I took a break in a really nice jug that really helped me get my arms back so I was able to climb the rest of the route. i had a little trouble with a move because it was a longer lunge with no feet behind me to get  over there. i got the hold and clip my next draw and looked at the next few holds and notice that it was going to start getting a little difficult. I made it to through the next 4 draws and then made a move to a pinch and my left forearm just gave out. I came down and into the crowd and every one was congratulating me. The women in first went and she made it to the first draw and that was it. I had just won first place in open and I was in such shock I couldn't really believe it. There were two really cool prizes that the first place winners got to choice from. Andrew Nimmer  choice the GriGri 2 so that left the new Petzl Spirit Quickdraws. During the two comps I took more than 1500 photos with 5 videos. All of them are posted to Facebook, Flickr and YouTube. Check them out because their are a ton of really neat pic. Also be sure to check out the video of the final route that I climbed.

Next weekend is 2013 SCS Midwest Regionals. I can't wait because I'm having such a great year and I feel this year is going to e the year. I'm super excited! This year I will be competing in both Sport climbing and Speed Climbing. Mainly focusing on Sport Climbing. I'm not totally ready for speed but its all good. This year is a trial run to see how things go. I cant want for Regionals. Be sure to watch for a new post after Regionals and a ton of new pictures.