Sunday, October 20, 2013

2013 ABS Madison Competition

Saturday,the 19th, was an ABS competition at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison. We left around 8am to get to the gym around 10:30. Climbing didn't start till 12. So I had a lot of time to get everything together and warm up. I started looking at routes around 11 then warming up at 11:45. The routes didn't have very high pionts on them which made it alittle bit more difficult to work around. Warming up on a lower point route then finding two more low points routes. I found some routes than really caught my eye and decided I wanted to try them. I flew through some of the harder routes which were worth higher points. There were a few routes that had me puzzled for a little bit. I looked them over a few times watched a few people and then I gave it another go. Most of the time I got it other times it took me another try to complete the problem. There was one problem I knew I could do but it wasn't going to help me points wise. I need a problem that was worth at least 400. This was difficult to do because that was about my max. I found a few routes that I knew I could do and did but there were that few that I was only one or two holds from the top and I would fall off the route. There was a little over an hour left to climb when I had hit a wall. I was getting pumped on routes much easier than I was on problems that were giving me trouble. I found a route that I knew I would be able to complete once I held the one power move in the route. I was trying more than four routes that were worth 400 points. I had three routes that were worth 400 points and two that were 350 points. I was trying to get all my points in the 400-500 range. It was 20 minutes before time was called and I decided I was done. The routes I was attempting I was barely getting to the same spot as I was when I first attempted them. I finished with 1900 points and three falls for a total of 1870. I was happy with how I did for the day. I ate lunch while scores were being tallied up. They started results and I was really curious on how many points I was from the first place person, if I wasn't. I knew that it would be a close first place run. I ended up taking 2nd place only down but 130 points. I was really happy with that because I am not much of the bouldering type.  

Before the competition came about I was talking with a FiveTen representative. I am part of the FiveTen Team for another year and I will have a blog account on their page. I'm really excited to continue my relationship with FiveTen. There were a ton of pictures taken from this weekends competition. Be sure to check them out either on Facebook or Flickr! 

Also at the end of the month I will be taking a trip to Arizona for four days. I will be climbing outside all the days that I am in Arizona. Stay posted for any further updates and photos. 

Sunday, October 13, 2013

First ABS comp of the year

I started training shortly after school started. The first week was an easy program to get back in to the mode of program training. Then they increasingly got a little bit tougher. It has been a little bit tough to keep up with the program because I was sick for about a week. September 20 was a fun climbing comp called Battle of the Ages at Adventure Rock. The gym set about 30 new routes for this comp so everyone would have something they have never tried before. I started with some routes that were low point just to have points. I then started working on routes that would cancel the lower point routes. I finished about 10 routes and the top 7 points would be scored. I was nearing the end and thought I will try a route that had a 100 point higher point value to get me extra points. I was really tired and was unalbe to do the route. In the end my total was 7625. I was failry confident with my day becuase I was not feeing to great and I was still able to do most of 5.10s and 5.11s. They did awards and did my division last. They didnt anounce the scores so I went back later to find out the point difference. I took 2nd place only behind by 100 points so definently being able to finish that last route would have helped me tie for 1st place.

Saturday, Oct. 5,  was the first ABS competition of the year. It was really busy at the gym. There was more than 120 youth competitors. There were 13 female juniors which is the category I am in this year. My start was a little rough but once I got into it I got going and started knocking a ton of problems out of the way. I was a little nervous at the beginning because I was. Making a few silly mistakes but once I got completely warmed up I was able to walk right through some problems that I had trouble with. In the end the ones I had trouble with weren't even in my top 5 which really benefited me. My top 5 routes were all flashes. I was able to complete three routes in the advanced division and two top scoring for the intermediate. When it was coming close to the end, I stopped worrying about the points and tried to just get some routes that looked like fun. I was so tired by the end it really didn't matter because I didn't have a whole lot left. One of the routes I did was all two finger pockets the whole way up. The start for it was challenging. But the finish of the route was a huge jug which made it easier to skip a move and not waste as much energy. It was a fun route and I went back to it after I turned my score card in just to try it again. They did results and I wasn't sure how I did compared to the other climbers. Some climbers I have never seen before. I took 5th in the end which was really good because I spent a lot of time on some routes to get pints that I probally shouldn't have. All in all it was a good day. All of the pictures are loaded to both Facebook and Flickr. Check them out their are some really cool pictures.