Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Hoosier Heights Division 3 Championships

This past weekend was Division 3 Championships. This is the last step before nationals. I have not been at divisionals in a since my first year. Last year was due to injury. I was really nervous going in because I was worried I wouldn't be ready for the routes that were set for our age group. At the same time I thought I was because I have been training really hard and knew I would be ready. I showed up in ISO and was really happy to know that I was for sure going out 4th in the running order. I sat around for alittle bit, they then went over rules and had us line up so we could go out for our route preview. My first route looked to be a 5.10 with a lot of really nice holds. The top of the route started to get a little bit more crimpy and the holds got a little bit smaller. Our second route looked like a lot of fun. The beginning of the route was all jugs. It then worked in to sloping jugs, then slopers, and finishing with a few really big crimps that were almost like jugs. The second route looked to be about a 5.12. We headed back to ISO and I started warming up by doing a few power moves so my legs would be warmed up. I then worked in to holding the really small holds so my hands would be ready for crimps and pinches. Once I was almost completely warmed up I went and I did a little stretching so I wouldnt hurt myself. I would jumping straight into route that might tear tendons if I didnt warm up and stretch before climbing.  I finished warming up by doing a couple hanging exercises in the steeper wall. By the time I was finished warming up it my time to check in at the chair and get ready to climb. I handed my bag of to my coach and all I took with were my shoes, harness, chalk bag and bottle, the stick and my A Game. I headed down to my first chair and had 5 minutes to sit and tie in. After I tied into my rope I did a couple last minute stretches for my hands and forearms. Time was called for the climber than were climbing and transition was started. I handed my card to the route judge checked over my knot and the belayer. It was now my time to climb. I looked over the route one more time, mostly looking at the finishing moves. I flew through the first 4 draws. I got to a hold that wasnt quite an undercling but used it for my rest. During my rest I looked over the rest of the route. Figuring out the finishing moves of the route. I made it to the top and was very happy because I knew it would go pretty well on my second climb. I headed over to my second chair, where I waited and stretched my arms out. I knew this route would be tougher on the forearms because of the type of holds and the pitch of the wall. It's my turn to climb. I look over the route one last time and give it a go. The beginning was fairly easy we on move that was a little unbalanced. I made it through the parts that I thought I would have trouble with. I then found the rest just past the early crux, I took a break and looked over the finishing moves on the route. My arms were getting pumped, while the rest helped, I was still realitivly tired. I started up the route again and found another quick rest before getting into the steepest part of the wall. After each move my arms became increasingly tired. About 10 from the finish it, I had given my all and gave one final push to the next hold. It was a better hold than the one I was currently holding. I wrapped my fingers around it and some how held on. I was than able to push another 3 feet closer to the finish. I had gotten the high point I could tell just by the noise of the crowd. I came down attempted to untie my knot, needed alittle help. Went to go find my coach and talk to him and see how I did. He told me I had the high point from what he saw with the other two climbers ahead me. I was really excited yet nervous because there were still 8 climbers that needed to climb. I sat watch nervously. Assuming ever one had finished the first route. After watching everyone climb the second route I had figured I was sitting in about 8th place. I was sitting high enough where I would not be first to go out for finals. I was super excited. Because last time I had gone to divisionals I didn't make finals. Speed climbing was just getting started. I did my runs and my first climb I finished with a time of 21flat. My second climb I fell not to far from the start. We eases back for the hotel knowing that they would post the results of speed later. The next morning I was up and ready to go before ISO was even being unlocked to set up. We head over to the gym alittle bit after ISO was open. We checked in and found out that the FYB would also be climbing the same route as the FYA.  So when we found out changed our game plan and goofed around till they were half through the FYB  running order. I started warming up and thinking about the route and the type of holds that were on the route. I did some handing excersizes on slopers, crimps and pinches. After I finished the hangs, I went and did some stretches and some tuck jumps. I finished stretching and did leg warm ups. By the time I was finished warming up my name was being called to check in to the chair. I was sitting in the chair tiring into my rope getting ready for the climb. I was nervous all through ISO and now I'm really excited and I started scanning the crowd. Just to see what was going on. There were already 4 climbers in my division that went ahead of me. My turn to climb and I look at the route again. I only have 40 seconds to look it over which it plenty of time to do so. I climbed through the first 10 feet telling my self this is easy. I made it to the 6th draw and clipped it. It was a little bit of a reach but it helped me out. I made the clip and took a quick rest so I would not get tired out like I did on the second qualifier route. The volume had three foot chips screwed in to it. The next was rather easy. I held on and got my foot up high. I stood up for the next holding on. I tryed to move my feet up but popped off the hold. I came down and went to go find my coach. He was standing next to one of the regional coordinators. Tom had told me it was the high point so far.  I sat and watched nervously. Knowing it would be close on weather or not I would go to nationals. All of the girl in my division finished and I knew I was at least 8th place. There was one girl I could not remember where she got on the route. We waited and waited and they started speed climbing but still did not post sport climbing results. Finally headed out te door to post results while much of the people we distracted by speed climbing. I followed them out and saw that I had placed 7th with a 2 hold lead on the 8th place person that was more than enough room for me to secure 7th place. I was really excited. My coach saw it and gave me a hug. We worked so hard between regionals and divisionals and its paying off. I didn't know what really to think at the time but I was shocked and extremely happy I made nationals. Mrs. Fields asked before results were posted if I thought I had made it and I told her it would be really close and of I did make it, it would be my first time going to nationals. She stopped by where they had posted results and asked and I told her I made it and she gave the biggest hug ever. She was really excited for me that I made nationals. All I had left to do was do my two climbs for speed. I was placed 9th after qualifiers for speed climbing. Which really surprised me. I warmed up and checked in. I waited till it was FYA's turn to go and I was going in the second group. My first climb I fell about 4 holds up, which was ok. My second climb I took my time in the beginning and them after the 4th hold I ran to the top. Since I took my time early I finished with a time of 21.95. Only a second slower than the day before. I was happy with my times because I'm not much of a speed climber. I was done and I packed my stuff up and put it in the truck. Texted everyone I knew that knew I was climbing that weekend what happened and that I was going to nationals. They did awards and started at the Youth-D division so it was going to be alittle bit before Youth-A was called. Our turn, I got my ribbon and my invite and had the biggest smile ever. Now it was time to show what I have at nationals.

All of the pictures of me climbing, of my ribbon and invite, almost with results are posted and loaded to my Facebook and Flickr accounts. All of the videos of my sport climbs and speed climbs are loaded to both my Facebook and YouTube accounts. Also a really big thanks to FiveTen who helped me out this year alot and helping me reach my goals. Also thanks to all my other sponsors such as So iLL, KASK Helmets and ClimbTech